Project plan: March 2014

Thursday, March 6, 2014

Bush on wood

Please go to the following site for a review on wood by george w (as played by Will Ferrell)

www.huffingtonpost.com/2009/03/13/will-ferrell-playing-geor_n_174876.html

Im not sure if this works as a link. If it doesnt just type it in.

nancy

Wednesday, March 5, 2014

Rojana Ibarra Post 1 George Nakashima

He has a very clean style and has been influenced by traditional furniture, in fact he joked and called himself a "Japanese Shaker." But at the same time leaves the natural essence of the wood allowing for the natural "imperfections" of the wood to be showcased. In researching Nakashima I fell in love with his clean lines and the beauty of the natural wood, especially the raw edges he so mush used. He carefully chose boards to showcase the natural forms of the wood such as the bench on the top left.

"To be intimate with nature in its multifaceted moods is one of the greatest experiences of life."

George Nakashima was a Japanese-American architect, furniture designer and wood worker. He was born in Spokane, Washington on May 24, 1905. He graduated from the University of Washington and got his Masters degree in both MIT and Prix Fontainebleau from LEcole Americaine des Beaux Arts in France. After World War II he married and was sent to a internment camp where he learned traditional Japanese carpentry from a man named Gentaro Hikogawa.

He truly blended both his Japanese and American cultures when creating his furniture and home. In fact the house that he built was all handmade without the use of any nails, which I found amazing. The furniture he designed for his house went on to be designs made and sold from his studio, like the three legged chair he named "Mira" after his daughter.

He was a very peaceful man, who was influenced by meditation and I feel that it really shows in his work. He really worked with the soul of the tree and let the natural beauty of it shine. He had respect for the wood and joined it with butterfly joints. I have always loved the look of natural wood with raw edges, so as I looked up the difeferent woodworkers I instantly fell in love with his work.

From 3D Model to Shop Plan A Workflow Example

The other day a friend of mine was asking me about how I go from a 3D model in SketchUp to a plan or shop drawing. He was looking for an efficient way to do the same thing so he can spend more time in his shop. My approach is pretty straightforward and it works for me for any type of project. For this example I am using the model I did for the Walnut Night Stand project from the current Getting Started in Woodworking series. You can download the plan for this project if you wish.

After I have drawn the entire assembled model I create the layers Ill use for organization. It is important to keep in mind that in SketchUp, the only purpose for layers is controlling the visibility of entites. If you arent familiar with the use of layers in SketchUp, take a look at this blog post. Remember to keep Layer 0 as the active layer. The layers are given names to suit the parts that will be associated with them. In this case its short list: Aprons, Dowels, Hardware, Legs, Shelf and Top.

After I create the layers, I turn off their visibility by unticking the boxes to the right of their names. Then I make the layer associations. To do this, open the Entity Info box. Select the component(s) whose layer association you want to change and the select the desired layer from the drop down list. If your model is complex, you might want to select the components from the Outliner instead of selecting them in the drawing. This can save you time making sure you have all instances selected without having to chase around the model. Since the layer visibility has been turned off for all but Layer 0, as you make the layer associations, the components will disappear.

When youve made all of the layer associations, you should have a blank drawing window. If theres anything left, you should investigate. If it is loose geometry, is there geometry missing from a componet? Are they just stray lines that dont belong to any components? Deal with them by either adding them into the proper component or deleting them. It wouldnt hurt to hit Zoom Extents and make sure you dont have stray line segments off in the distance. Delete those as well.
In addition to layers created for the components, you may also want to add layers for dimensions and other text. I add all dimensions and text in LayOut so I dont have those layers in the model. I also add dashed lines in LayOut instead of SketchUp but if I were putting them into the model, I would also create a layer for them.

Next I turn on all the layers and begin to set up the views I need for the plan. I typically make a three-quarter perspective view along with 2D front and side views. Each of these is set up as a Scene. You can either go to View>Animation>Add Scene or open the Scenes dialog box and add them there. To make the exploded view, I copy the model off to one side and pull the components in that copy apart as needed. I also copy off components for detail views. In the view above I have all of the layers turned on so you can see how the parts are spread out out. I can control what is visible in each scene by ticking or unticking the visibilty boxes for the layers. You can see that the shelf and top overlap each other above the exploded view but since their visibility can be controlled, they dont show as overlapping in the plan. You can also see Ive made rotated copies of the various parts to create two views of the same part in one scene.

Once the scenes are created it is time for the plans. If you have the pro version of SketchUp, this would be the time you would save the file and then send it to LayOut. If you are using the free version, you would add in the dimensions and text as needed to the various scenes. You might wait until this point to add the layers for the dimensions and text. You might want to make layers to match each scene so that the dimensions for the top can be hidden when you are looking at the shelf and vice versa. You could put the dimensions for the top on the same layer as the top. This might cause you problems if you have some scenes in which you want to see the components but not the dimensions.
Keep in mind that Screen Text remains in a constant position on the screen. If you insert screen text, itll show in the same place in each scene unless you give it a layer association and turn that layer off when you dont want the text.

If you are using LayOut, youll simply export a PDF file when youre finished. In the free version of SketchUp you can either print each scene directly from SketchUp or export images of each scene.

If you do the latter, you can import them into a word processor or other application and arrange the images as needed. Then you can make a PDF or just print the file and head off to the shop.

If you have the need to do much of this sort of thing, youll probably find that LayOut makes it a lot easier to get to the final document. One of the big benefits of using LayOut is that if you find a need to edit the model after youve created the document, the views in LayOut can be updated automatically.

Click Here and Start WoodWorking

Quick Fix

Literally the day after finishing my Saw Bench (almost a month ago), I found myself craving a quick woodworking fix. My girlfriend had just left the house to tend her horses which gave me an excuse and a couple of hours to make her a quick surprise while she was gone.

A small offcut of Pine seemed to be shouting at me from the pile saying make me a box ...

So, with no box joints or anything complicated I simply cut and squared the Pine into a few pieces and made a quick & dirty butt jointed box. After squaring the sides and waiting for the glue to dry I intended to make a really simple lid the next morning.

Unfortunately, a week away working on the boat and then being called off to France for family matters meant the box remained unfinished... Until now.

Lunchtime today, I used a second small offcut of Pine, slightly thicker and cut and planed it to size to make a simple lid. The edges were chamfered by eye to make a wedge to fit snuggly into the box top. Secondly, a small piece of Mahogany was roughly squared and then sanded to make a knob.

Job done - Another little box on her dressing table for her bits n bobs - A quick fix to end my period of Cold Turkey.

Tuesday, March 4, 2014

Media Cabinet Starting the doors

So for the last couple of days I have been gluing pieces together for the four main partitions, as well as the bottom. As I explained last time, I only glue up two boards at a time to keep it more manageable so it takes a little longer. Im nearly complete with the bottom glue up, just one more piece and I will be ready to do final dimensioning on it; my router bits showed up as well so I will be ready to add the profile on it as well. So, while doing all of that I thought I would get started on the doors. There are four doors total, two swing out doors that house DVD storage and two center doors the are pocket doors. Im starting with the two outside doors for now. The design call for doors that are 13" wide by 26" tall, I am using 2" rails and stiles, so my center panel needs to be a small 9 3/4" wide by 22 3/4" tall. You get to these numbers by taking the overall size of the door, subtracting your rail/stile width...twice and then adding back the depth of the cut the router bit makes, in my case 3/8" times two (one for each side). So, with that I wanted to get to making the center panels. I have some 8/4 pieces and one in particular that is over 10" wide so I am going to resaw that in half and have two matching doors, one on the left and one on the right. Before I can do that, I have to flatten the board on one side so I can plane it and and resaw it. So here is the board that I am using and in this picture you can see I have marked it up with chalk. This tell me where I need to remove material in order to ensure it is flat.

From MediaCabinet

So, after just a few minutes with my hand planes I had one side flat and then was able to run it through the planer and get it ready to be sliced in half.

From MediaCabinet

Here are the two pieces after being resawn; notice the grain in the center, its the same on both boards, which is called book matched. When you cut the pieces in half, you then lay them open like a book and have matching pieces. Here they are after both being planed down to final thickness.

From MediaCabinet

Next I will be cutting the rail and stile material and using the router table to make the door frame. Then, I will be using a raised panel cutter for the doors and then I will be able to dry assemble the doors; so that is my goal for the first part of this week.

Be Safe!

Spring projects

Its hard to believe Spring begins this weekend! That means two things: Mothers Day is sooner than you think, and you might want to emerge from indoors and build an outdoor project.

For Mothers Day, you simply cant go wrong with jewelry boxes, but you might want to get started soon. Rick Beale made three, using curly redwood that was headed to the dump. Its astonishing what one mans scrap can yield to a woodworker. Nice work Rick. Check out the grain here:

And heres a great springtime project Laney sent over. You could certainly build this in a day or so. He used pressure treated lumber and some scrap cedar. The hanging baskets are my favorite.

Building a Simple and Cheap Woodworking Bench

If you are looking for a woodworking bench, you can buy it or, you can make your own. If you are new to woodworking, then I highly recommend that you make your own bench so that you can practice. Here is how you build your simple and cheap woodworking bench.

1. Overall bench dimensions

The bench is 26’’ x 48” x 32” (deep x width x height)

2. Materials required for this project

a. OSB

b. 2”x4”

c. Deck Screws

3. The Pieces

a. For Side Rails, cut the 2”x4” to 45" long. Make 4 pieces

b. For Legs, cut the 2”x4” to 32" long. Make 4 pieces

c. For End Rails, cut the 2”x4” to 26" long. Make 4 pieces

d. Get 2 pieces of 26" x 48"OSB

4. How to assemble the side assembly

Place the lower rail 6” away from the bottom of the legs. You can use a 90 degree ruler to ensure the rail is 90 degree with the legs. Screw the joints together, with 4 screws each joint. In the process, the side frame will be "squared up".

5. How to assemble the frame assembly

Attached the end rails to the side frames. Then, turn over the two sides and ready for clamping and joining. The corners are joined using 3" deck screws.

Then attach the OSB (the shelve) with 1-5/8" deck screws.

6. How to install the lower shelf

Make rectangular notches, with the size of 3" x 5" at each corner of the OSB. This will allow the OSB to fit around the legs.

To get the OSB in place, you need to angle it and attach it with short deck screws.

That is all there is to make your own woodworking bench.

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Monday, March 3, 2014

Shadow Boxes

I received a table saw for Christmas about 4 years ago. This was my first woodworking machine. My wife wanted a couple shadow boxes and this was the first project I ever put together. Its a pretty simple concept. Two shelves that I just flipped to give me the effect we both wanted. I made this project out of red oak that I got at Home Depot. Nothing fancy!The boards were fastened with 3/4 inch dados that I made with my router, glue, counter sunk #8 wood screws and then I plugged the holes with dowel. I used a dark walnut stain and a few coats of water based polyurethane. It was a pretty simple project.

More Bread Boards

If anyone is interested, I just listed 4 more sets of my mini bread boards on Etsy!

Hope youre having a great weekend! :)

Make a table saw miter sled

Many of you may remember a miter sled video I made a while back. Although the sled worked, I always thought that it was an unnecessarily complicated way to build it.

Since I seem to be getting backlogged on pictures that need framing, I built a new miter sled this week. It is much easier to make than the old one. And youll get perfect mitered corners every time!

Plans:

SketchUp design
PDF plans

Bonus video!

I experimented with making a plywood picture frame for a print Ive been wanting to complement with something unusual. I like the notion of embracing the plywoods edges and featuring them. I also experimented with using kitchen food coloring as a wood dye. Worked out fine!

Sunday, March 2, 2014

Quangsheng Vs Lie Nielsen Bench Planes

A while ago I mentioned I was thinking about purchasing a Lie Nielsen no#5 Jack plane and also wanted a no#7. However, four months later I am still using my exceptionally crappy modern Stanley no#4 smoother and no#6 as a jointer / fore plane. With that in mind I have come to the conclusion that the preferred planes in my tool set would be a no#3 for smoothing, no#5 jack plane which could double as a large smoother if required and finally a no#7 for jointing and final flattening of stock.

I would probably only keep my crappy Stanleys for rough DIY type work or green wood etc.

In the perfect world I would love for all three planes to be made by Lie Nielsen, but at the following Axminster UK prices: no#3 £282, no#5 £282 and no#7 £369 - I simply cannot justify spending £933 - especially as a beginner! Can I?...

Having done a lot more research on plane manufacturers, I have discovered a UK company called Workshop Heaven who are selling planes made by Quangsheng at a fraction of the price of the Lie Nielsen ones. These planes are basically Lie Nielsen clones, based on the Stanley Bedrock design, complete with thick blades and improved chip breakers a la Lie Nielsen. The only constructional differences appear to be:

The Quangsheng blades are T10 Carbon steel instead of A2 as used by Lie Nielsen. Some reviews have stated the Quangsheng blades are incredibly sharp and possibly sharper than A2 steel and hold a good edge.
The Lie Nielsen planes use bronze lever caps with the Quangsheng ones being brushed steel.
Lie Nielsen offer high angle frogs - whereas the only Quangsheng option would be putting a back bevel on the blade. I guess its possible that the Lie Nielsen frogs might fit the Quangsheng planes?

Spot the difference...

According to the reviews I have found on the Internet and online wood working forum discussions, the Quangsheng planes are very good (albeit made in China) both in terms of construction, finish and performance, with some people stating there is very little difference between their Quangsheng planes and their Lie Nielsen planes. The biggest difference as far as I can tell is slightly tighter machine tolerances on the Lie Nielsen planes, translating in to slightly finer blade control.

The three planes listed above from Quangsheng would only cost £389 total, no#3 £90, no#5 £110 and the no#7 £190 - Wow! That leaves a lot of change to buy some nice chisels....

I wrote to Workshop Heaven enquiring about the Quangsheng planes and they said:

Officially the soles of all sizes are flat to 3 thou, although in practice they are typically better than half that.

We offer a lifetime guarantee on all of the tools we sell (your life not the tools). Im interested in regular happy customers, not a 100% record of never losing money on a deal.

All in all they sound like a good buy...BUT ... would I regret buying them down the line?

So ... what to do?

Any readers own a Quangsheng plane or have any experience with them? Anyone know anything about them or can offer any advice - it would be greatly appreciated!

On a slightly different note - all progress on the Stools has been delayed due to me making the school boy error of running out of glue - doh! I did intend to order some more glue online, but thought I might include a plane order...

Looking forward to your thoughts on the above...

Dining Room Finds

Hey there! Happy first day of the LOVE month! Speaking of love, my amazing man brought home more loot this past week from his picking adventures and put it in storage. I was able to go check it out over the weekend and pick what I wanted out of it. I came across this huge wood frame that I HAD to have. As soon as I stumbled across it, I knew exactly what I wanted to do with it.

Yes, I know, chalkboards are everywhere but I really dont care and this thing makes me so happy. Plus, I am so inspired by this quote from one of my cookbooks. I have this quote on another chalkboard at our shop to inspire me while I work on bread boards.

I also picked out this vintage wood cutlery tray and silver tray. I didnt get a good shot of the silver tray but I love it and that sucker is so heavy. And it goes perfectly with our vintage silver flatware.

I think this might just be my favorite corner of the house.

To make the chalkboard, I simply attached a piece of plywood that I had painted with chalkboard paint to the back of the frame and stapled. Voila.

Getting ready to give the kids rooms an overhaul and I. Cant. Wait.

Still working on the stairs, too. I loved all of your suggestions on our stair project, thank you! I think weve decided to stain the treads a dark color and paint the risers a decorators white. But thats not a done deal yet. Stay tuned!

Have a lovely day!

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Saturday, March 1, 2014

Small Woodworking Shop Wooden Ideas

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