Project plan

So for the last couple of days I have been gluing pieces together for the four main partitions, as well as the bottom. As I explained last time, I only glue up two boards at a time to keep it more manageable so it takes a little longer. Im nearly complete with the bottom glue up, just one more piece and I will be ready to do final dimensioning on it; my router bits showed up as well so I will be ready to add the profile on it as well. So, while doing all of that I thought I would get started on the doors. There are four doors total, two swing out doors that house DVD storage and two center doors the are pocket doors. Im starting with the two outside doors for now. The design call for doors that are 13" wide by 26" tall, I am using 2" rails and stiles, so my center panel needs to be a small 9 3/4" wide by 22 3/4" tall. You get to these numbers by taking the overall size of the door, subtracting your rail/stile width...twice and then adding back the depth of the cut the router bit makes, in my case 3/8" times two (one for each side). So, with that I wanted to get to making the center panels. I have some 8/4 pieces and one in particular that is over 10" wide so I am going to resaw that in half and have two matching doors, one on the left and one on the right. Before I can do that, I have to flatten the board on one side so I can plane it and and resaw it. So here is the board that I am using and in this picture you can see I have marked it up with chalk. This tell me where I need to remove material in order to ensure it is flat.

From MediaCabinet

So, after just a few minutes with my hand planes I had one side flat and then was able to run it through the planer and get it ready to be sliced in half.

From MediaCabinet

Here are the two pieces after being resawn; notice the grain in the center, its the same on both boards, which is called book matched. When you cut the pieces in half, you then lay them open like a book and have matching pieces. Here they are after both being planed down to final thickness.

From MediaCabinet

Next I will be cutting the rail and stile material and using the router table to make the door frame. Then, I will be using a raised panel cutter for the doors and then I will be able to dry assemble the doors; so that is my goal for the first part of this week.

Be Safe!

Hi Everyone,

Well, its getting colder and Ive been outside working all afternoon and my hands are semi-frozen! Heres the latest from the workshop:

I finished turning the outside and I sanded it to 150 grit paper and its smooth enough for a yarn bowl:


So I took off the faceplate, and flipped the blank over and screwed the faceplate back on with 1" #10 wood screws. Im going to use the tailstock again to support this blank as its very heavy and the screws are very short:


And here we are ready to go:


I turned it between centers for about 10 minutes and this is as hollowed out as I could make it. Time to remove the tailstock and hollow it out:


I like to drill out the center of bowls-it removed the center easily and establishes depth so Im not cutting too deeply. Here Im drilling out the center with a large Forstner bit:


And this is that entire section of wood removed. I wound up drilling out the center several more times to reach the bottom as this bowl is really deep:





The bowl was quite deep at this point, in fact it was so deep, my tools wouldnt reach that far so I resorted to a large, heavy bowl scraper to remove the wood on the bottom of the bowl. I ordinarily dont use the scraper for this but it was the only tool I had that reached into the bowl and could cut with out a lot of vibration:

And it did a nice job of smoothing the inside:


 I worked on the bowl for another hour after the above photo was taken. I had to cut the interior until the holes that I drilled into the sides came through. Below is a photo of the bowl, off the lathe, with a flashlight inside so as to convey a sense of depth:


And here are several more photos-you can clearly see the holes in the sides:




Now, most yarn bowls have a hole-slot combination so a knitter can slide the yarn into the hole without having to break the yarn. Ive emailed my friend to ask if she would like me to cut slots in the bowl. Until I hear back Ill continue to sand the interior and the rim of the bowl.

Stay tuned for the slot and the finishing.

VW

This guy is one of my woodworking heroes!

Philly Planes


Just got another update from Phil Edwards regarding my hollows and rounds...theyre complete and should be in my grubby little hands by the end of next week. I love it when manufacturers give updates of their work while its being done, it makes parting with my hard earned cash that much easier! Phil has been extremely professional and a pleasure doing business with; if his planes are half as good as his customer service then Ill be a happy woodworker.
Ill let you know when they arrive.
Cheers!

Yesterday I finished the art above the headboard!

Click to read more about the tufted headboard with wings and nailhead trim, dresser/nightstand, lamps, pillows!


I drew a design based off of the bed skirt or back of pillows fabric - traced with puffy paint (remember it is very hard to get the puffy paint to be perfect - if you try it this way, embrace the imperfections!)

After it dried I painted it with SW Anew Gray with a little white mixed in

Once it dried I didnt think that it had enough contrast - and looked a little flat in the space ...


so I retraced the lines with white puffy paint and perfect - just enough pop!


The two larger frames on the right are painted the same as the canvases (little frame is from Ikea)

I printed the quote on fabric - check out this post to see how I did it - I drew the Eames chair outline and Annabelles silhouette in illustrator



I love the extra contrast that the white lines gave the canvases! and how the texture ties in with the bed skirt while balancing out the stenciled wall

I have a lot of exciting projects in the works ... now I just have to decide what to start first!